Are You Finished Yet?

Here is a look at the most common finishes used before you "finish" your project. Hope you enjoy!

Wax
A very soft "finish", which offers very little protection. It is best used as a polishing and preserving agent on top of other finishes or as a finish to preserve the natural color of the wood.

Linseed Oil
A natural oil finish made from the seeds of the flax plant (the same plant that is used to produce flaxseed oil, which is found in health food stores & used to help prevent heart disease and arthritis. However, linseed oil is NOT edible as it contains other chemicals to aid in the drying process). It is one of the least protective finishes, but it is easy to apply and yields a beautiful hand-rubbed look. Like all oil finishes, it's best for items that won’t see a lot of wear and tear.

Tung Oil
A very old, natural finish made from nuts of the Tung tree, which grows in the eastern Asia. Slightly more water resistant and paler in color than linseed oil. Often used as the base oil component in other finishes. Also a good choice if the hand-rubbed look is what you're after.

Oil-Varnish Blend
A very popular "hybrid" finish made by mixing a little varnish with a larger quantity of oil. It is easy to apply like true oil finishes but with some of the protective qualities of varnish. Some types include antique oil, teak oil, Watco Danish oil, various salad bowl finishes and some home-made versions.

Shellac
One of the oldest and most under-appreciated of all finishes. Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and is available in a variety of colors ranging from nearly transparent to orange/amber and is available in flakes or pre-mixed. It dissolves in alcohol or Behkol and is similar in scratch-resistance as oil or oil/varnish-blends but not as protective as varnish or water-based finishes. It's easily repaired and not as toxic as oil-based finishes. Interesting fact about shellac is that it is also used as a food and candy glaze and was used in making old phonograph records.

Lacquer
A synthetic cellulose-based finish that is the finish of choice for many professionals. It dries fast, has decent protective qualities (somewhere between oil-varnish blends and varnish), provides excellent clarity and depth, rubs out well, and is fairly easy to repair (we offer a variety of colors in aerosol toners for easy touch-up). It also sprays like a dream with the proper equipment. It's available in several varieties including nitrocellulose, CAB-acrylic, catalyzed (pre-cat & post cat), & water-borne. Pre-cat & post-cat simply means the hardener is either mixed in before, or after you get it. The most popular type used is the pre-cat. It can also be tinted slightly using toners or dyes for a deeper appearance.

Varnish
A very protective and durable, amber-colored finish that holds up well to wear and tear, water, and solvents. It's commonly available in one of three ways, depending on the resin used; alkyd, phenolic, or polyurethane. Negatives include a longer curing time, strong fumes while curing, and poor reparability. It also yellows more over time so it's not the best choice for light-colored woods.

Water-Borne
A good choice if you're looking for a non-yellowing finish that's safer for you and the environment. It has decent toughness and scratch resistance but not as resistant to water, heat, and solvents as standard varnish. The first coat has a tendency to raise the grain of the wood, which can be frustrating, especially if you are staining. Water-based finishes typically cost more than their oil-based counterparts. Due to new Volatile Organic Compounds laws (known as VOC), more and more finishes are now being made with a water base to them.

Conversion
A fast curing finish with excellent resistance to heat, wear, water, and solvents. Typically used for institutional furniture. Highly toxic solvent and formaldehyde fumes - a professional grade spraying environment is essential.

For a more in-depth look at finishing, check out the following books and videos: New Wood Finishing Book, Understanding Wood Finishing, & Refinishing Furniture DVD. For a complete listing of all of the finishing products we have available and get that project "finished."

About Chris Smith
Chris began his woodworking career early while in high school. With three years of woodshop class under his belt, he graduated in 1993 and then began work for a cabinet shop.

His work in the cabinet shop spanned over several years. He continued his skills in cabinetry on his own before joining Klingspor’s Woodworking Shop in 2001.

He found an immediate interest in woodturning while at Klingspor. But, for Chris, it is more than just woodturning as he finds enjoyment in all aspects of woodworking. He has a wealth of 20 years experience in cabinetmaking, furniture building, woodturning, and more.

Customer Project

Puzzle Rocking Chairs by Warren T. Lowe was submitted to us recently. Nice work!

Wood Finishing Advice & Tips

Every WOODWORKER knows that WOOD FINISHING is the most important part of the project. We’ve compiled a list of WOOD FINISHING advice & tips. We hope the list will give you added knowledge for your future woodworking projects!

Do you have any tips not listed here that you would like your fellow WOODWORKERS to know about? If so, leave it in the comments section!

• Remove glue splotches before staining (stain will not color glue).
• Use a low-angle light to identify glue splotches and blemishes.
• Seal resinous knots with a shellac-based sealer, such as Bullseye SealCoat
• Apply a filler, such as Behlen's Por-o-pac to open-grain woods (e.g., oak) for the smoothest possible finish.
• Use a test strip of wood to check the color and quality of the stain and top coat finish.
• Reduce stain splotching in pine by applying a "washcoat" sealer or a gel stain.
• Sponge wood and re-sand when dry to minimize grain-raising from water-based finishes.
• Sand end grain to a finer grit to prevent excessive stain darkening (or use gel stain).
• Apply a "washcoat" to end grain to prevent excessive stain darkening.
• Finishes containing oil (including varnish) yellow over time.
• Most woods darken as they age.
• Arrange pieces horizontally to reduce runs and sags (especially when brushing).
• Use shellac or lacquer if reparability and reversibility are most important, as these types of finishes allow for easier repair.
• Use water-base finish for low toxicity, non-yellowing, and ease of clean-up.
• Use lacquer or dewaxed shellac for the best clarity and rubbing qualities.
• Use pure oil finishes for the "natural" look (at the expense of protection).
• Use polyurethane if you want an inexpensive, very durable, very protective finish.
• Use spar varnish, paint, or outdoor specific oils for the most durable outdoor finishes.

About Chris Smith
Chris began his woodworking career early while in high school. With three years of woodshop class under his belt, he graduated in 1993 and then began work for a cabinet shop.

His work in the cabinet shop spanned over several years. He continued his skills in cabinetry on his own before joining Klingspor’s Woodworking Shop in 2001.

He found an immediate interest in woodturning while at Klingspor. But, for Chris, it is more than just woodturning as he finds enjoyment in all aspects of woodworking. He has a wealth of 20 years experience in cabinetmaking, furniture building, woodturning, and more.

Making a Scalloped Edge Bowl by Richard Morris

We would like to invite you to read a recent article by Richard Morris of Richard Morris Art. "Making a Scalloped Edge Bowl" article is featured on his website, http://richardmorrisart.com, under the Educational & Other Stuff section.

 You may also click the link to go directly to the article, http://richardmorrisart.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Turning-A-Scalloped-Edge-Bowl-4.pdf.

 Please note that the article is a PDF file. It may be downloaded to read or viewed within your browser depending upon your software and/or browser settings. You must have either Acrobat Reader (Acrobat Reader is a free download from Adobe.com), a third party software, or a browser plug-in to view the file.

Blue Ridge Woodworking

If you love high quality furniture with unique beauty, you should visit Blue Ridge Woodworking online. Their main focus is crafting unique, high quality furniture that will stand the test of time. Classic designs never go out of style. And, with the selection of high quality hardwoods, you'll have a functional work of art to display in your home that will bring both pride and dependability.

 Visit Blue Ridge Woodworking online at http://blueridgewoodworking.myshopify.com/.

Get the Scoop Woodworkers!

Woodworkers! Get the Scoop only at Klingspor's Woodworking Shop:

• MSDS Sheets on your favorite finishing products GOT IT!
• Charts of all kinds GOT IT!
• Forms to make your shopping experience easier GOT IT!
• How-To Instructions GOT IT!
• Additional Product Information GOT IT!
• Videos of Woodworking and Related Products GOT IT!

So, visit our Woodworking Scoop page online @ http://www.woodworkingshop.com/scoop.aspx. Bookmark it too as we will be adding more Woodworking goodies!

Retail Store Locations

Get to know our stores on a more personal level by visiting our newly created store pages! We have three retail locations and those stores are in NC. Our retail store locations are Hickory, Raleigh, and Winston-Salem. Each store's page has unique information related to that store from classes to announcements and even calendar of events.

Main store page link: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/locations/

Hickory store page link: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/hickory/

Raleigh store page link: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/raleigh/

Winston-Salem store page link: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/winston/

Lower Creek Custom Game Calls, LLC

Are you an avid hunter or know someone who is? You should check out Lower Creek Game Calls. Featured on their website are custom made games calls. They make and carry a wide selection from Deer, Predator, Turkey, Waterfowl, and Squirrel. All calls are custom made, which make each call unique, thus not any two are alike.

You can visit Lower Creek Custom Calls, LLC at http://www.lowercreekgamecalls.com

Important Shellac Information

About Shellac
Shellac is an excellent quick drying non-waterproof Child-Safe finish. Flake form allows fresh shellac to be prepared and avoids waste. Use shellac to seal in sap, resin, grease or oil marks after cleaning and prior to painting or lacquering.

Thinned shellac (1/2 to 3/4 pound cut) makes an excellent stain barrier coat or hold out coat especially on soft woods and difficult or end grain prior to using a pigmented stain.

Dissolving & Mixing Flake Shellac
Mix what will be used within 3-6 months. Mix in a dark plastic or glass container with a tightly fitting lid. Soak the flake shellac in about 1/2 of the total alcohol to be used for 24 hours or longer (cool room temperatures will slow the process; pulverize button shellac to speed dissolving) stir occasionally and when dissolved add the balance of the alcohol. The consistency of shellac is designed by "cut". A 2 pound cut is two pounds of shellac flake in one gallon (or 1/2 pound shellac in one quart) BEHKOL Denatured Alcohol.

For first experiences with shellac it is recommended that you start with a light consistency, preferably about a 1 pound - 1.5 pound cut. A one pound cut is (1 pound of flake to 1 gallon) or (1/4 pound in a quart) of Denatured Alcohol.

To mix 1 pint of 1 pound cut liquid shellac use approximately a 2:16 ratio of shellac flakes to alcohol (2 ounce of shellac flakes dissolved in 16 ounce of alcohol). Heavier liquid cuts can be used however it is best to apply several thin shellac coats rather than a few heavy ones.

After the shellac is fully dissolved, it should be strained through fine mesh cheesecloth to remove any impurities. Shellac is made from the lac bug and a few bits of bug carcass or packaging are often left in the dry shellac resin. Before the liquid shellac is used, it should be stirred thoroughly.

Different shellacs may be intermixed in the liquid state to adjust color tone or shades.

Shellac Application
When used as an under-coater prior to other finishes, use a Dewaxed shellac. Shellac should be applied in long strokes with the grain. Shellac requires some practice in order to be used to its full potential. Dip a good natural bristle brush about half way into the shellac and gently clear excess shellac against the side of the container, this gives a reasonably filled brush for full strokes without incorporating air in the shellac. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly. Shellac should be sanded as necessary between coats.

If the shellac is dry, sanding will produce a fine powder on the surface. If the shellac is not dry, it will be somewhat tacky and the paper will clog. After sanding, wipe the piece thoroughly with a tack cloth and recoat. Depending upon temperature and humidity conditions, allow from two to six hours drying for each coat. Some craftsmen prefer to do their finish sanding on raw wood after first giving it a coat of shellac as this stiffens the wood fibers and allows any rough portions to be easily sanded.

When thoroughly cured the finish can be rubbed out with oil free & long stranded #0000 Steel Wool or fine pumice with paraffin oil. Rubbing should always be done with the grain. 24 hours after the final rubbing, to protect your shellac finish, apply a thin coat of paste wax. Allow the wax to dry completely and buff with a soft cotton cloth.

Storage
Store mixed shellac: tightly sealed & cool, and in a dark place if a clear container is used.
Store Flake: tightly sealed, cool, and dark.
Test all older shellac mixtures (if several months old) for drying. If the surface stays tacky after 8 hours and does not sand freely without gumming, the shellac is old and will not cure hard and must be discarded.

"Packing" or "Blocking"
Dewaxed shellac flake when exposed to high heat and/or humidity tends to "block" or pack together in small, or occasionally, large chunks or "blocks". To avoid blocking: store shellac flake tightly sealed in a cool, dry location (under 70°F).

NOTE: Blocking is not detrimental to the shellac flake.

If the flake blocks, wrap larger chunks in cloth or thick plastic sheeting, to keep them from flying all over the room, and reduce them to manageable size with a hammer or dead blow mallet.

The finest flakes are imported via air to avoid blocking however there is little control if the product is delayed in a delivery van or air container on a hot day.

More Shellac Guidelines
Use Behlen BEHKOL™ or a high-test denatured alcohol (10% denaturants or less).

If the label does not say, the MSDS sheet for the brand will have the mixture percentages. A 190 proof denatured alcohol has 5% denaturant.

• A warm environment will aid the alcohol in dissolving flake. NEVER place alcohol or shellac on or near any source of heat. In a cooler room, set the lidded bottle of dissolving shellac flake in a container of hot (not boiling) water to aid in dissolving.
• Strain the working shellac solution through layers of cloth to remove any particles of dirt or organic material.
• Evaluate flake color when in liquid, variation in flake thickness from production batches can make a thinner flake look lighter in tone. Slight seasonal variations do occur in a natural product but they will be within the laboratory acceptable color range.
• Blending Flake Colors or Tones: Any of the shellacs may be intermixed or inter-layered. For repeatable results, blend shellac colors only in liquid form.

Woodturning Basics

Woodworking 101

Woodturning Basics

by Scott Ollis

Traditional furniture and kitchenware often include turned parts. The parts are produced on a wood lathe. The wood is rotated about a horizontal axis while being shaped by a tool that is hand-held in a fixed relation to the wood.

The hand wood lathe combines the skill of hand-tool work with the power of a machine. Some woodworkers use a hand lathe for hobby purposes. In production work, its value is limited. The primary occupational value of this machine is for the pattern maker, the model maker, the bowl turner and those who restore and rebuild antique furniture and wood artists.

There are many accessories that can be used on the wood lathe, not only for turning but also for buffing, grinding, horizontal boring, disk sanding, drum sanding, thread cutting, and routing spirals.

The six most common types of tools for woodturning are:

• Gouges for rough turning and cutting stock to round shape


• Skews for smooth cuts to a finished surface


• Parting tools to cut a recess or a groove


• Spear-point or diamond point to finish the inside of recesses or corners


• Flat tools for scraping a straight surface


• Round nose tools for scraping a concave recess and circular grooves

Measuring tools should include a rule, dividers, outside calipers, inside calipers and a depth gauge.

There are two basic methods of turning wood: cutting and scraping. Cutting tools include the gouge, skew, and parting tool, while the scraping tools are the flat nose, the round nose and the spear point. All of the cutting tools can also be used for scraping operations. In the cutting method, the outer skin of the wood is pierced and a shaving is peeled off. In scraping, the tool is forced into the wood so that particles are scraped away. When only a limited amount of turning is to be done, the scraping method is acceptable.

The two basic types of turning are spindle turning and faceplate turning. Turning with the stock held between the headstock spur-center, with the grain of the wood running with the axis of the lathe is called spindle turning. When the wood is screwed to the faceplate, usually, but not always, the grain of the wood is run 90 degrees to the axis of the lathe and this is called faceplate turning.

Bowls, platters and many other circular objects are turned on a faceplate. To do the turning, the wood is fastened to a faceplate and shaped by cutting and scraping the wood. Faceplates commonly used are the screw-center and standard faceplates of various diameters. The faceplates have screw holes for fastening the wood in place.

The first step in faceplate turning is to determine the size and kind of material needed. To make a larger bowl or platter, it is often necessary to glue up the stock. For a square object, carefully mount the wood on the faceplate. If the object is to be round, first cut the stock on a band-saw to a disk shape about one-quarter larger than the intended finished diameter and about one-quarter thicker. Then mount it to the faceplate.

If screw holes on the back of the bowl or platter are objectionable, cut a piece of scrap stock at least 1" thick and about the same size as the base of the project. Screw the faceplate to the scrap, glue the wood to be turned to the scrap, and you are ready to turn.

There are several ways of applying a finish to a turning. A simple method is to apply paste wax to a cloth and hold it to a revolving turning so that it is completely coated with the wax. After approximately 10 minutes, run the lathe at a slow speed and polish the surface with a soft, clean, dry cloth or paper towel. A second coat can be applied if needed, using the same method. To apply a French polish, fold a piece of linen cloth into a pad. Then add one teaspoon of shellac and add several drops of boiled linseed oil. Hold it to the revolving turning while moving the pad from side to side until the desired results are achieved.

Most importantly, have fun while turning!

Wood Finishes & Basic Uses

Wax

A very soft "finish" with minimal protective qualities. Best used as a polishing and preserving agent on top of other finishes or as a minimalist finish to preserve the natural color of wood.

Linseed Oil

A natural oil finish made from seeds of the flax plant. One of the least protective finishes but it is easy to apply and yields a beautiful hand-rubbed look. Like all oil finishes, it's best for items that are not subject to a lot of wear and tear.

Tung Oil

An ancient, natural finish made from nuts of the Tung tree. Slightly more water resistant and paler in color than linseed oil. Often used as the base oil component in other finishes. A good choice if you want the hand-rubbed look.

Oil-Varnish Blend

A very popular "hybrid" finish made by mixing a little varnish with a larger quantity of oil. Easy to apply like true oil finishes but with some of the protective qualities of varnish. Group includes antique oil, teak oil, Watco Danish oil, Nordic oil, Scandinavian oil, and various salad bowl finishes.

Shellac

One of the oldest and most under-appreciated of all finishes. More water and scratch-resistant than oil or oil/varnish-blends but not as protective as varnish or water-based finishes. Also dissolves in alcohol so not the best choice for bar tops. Comes in a variety of colors ranging from nearly transparent to orange/amber and is available in flakes or pre-mixed. Easily repaired and not as toxic as oil-based finishes.

Lacquer

Synthetic cellulose-based finish that is the finish of choice for many professionals. It dries fast, has decent protective qualities (somewhere between oil-varnish blends and varnish), provides excellent clarity and depth, rubs out well, and is fairly easy to repair. It also sprays very easily with great leveling properties. Available in several varieties including nitrocellulose (standard), and catalyzed lacquer (is available with the catalyst added). *see "Conversion" for post catalyzed finishes not used by the average woodworker.

Varnish

A very protective and durable amber-colored finish that holds up well to wear and tear, water, and solvents. Commonly available in three flavors, depending on the resin used alkyd, phenolic, or polyurethane. Negatives include long curing time, noxious fumes while curing, and poor repairability. Also yellows more over time so not the best choice for light-colored woods.

Water-Based

Good choice if you're looking for a non-yellowing finish that's safer for you and the environment. Decent toughness and scratch resistance but not as resistant to water, heat, and solvents as polyurethane varnish. First coat has tendency to raise grain. Water-based finishes typically cost more than their oil-based counterparts.

Conversion

Fast curing finish with excellent resistance to heat, wear, and solvents. Typically used for institutional furniture. Highly toxic solvent and formaldehyde fumes -- a professional grade spraying environment is essential. Cellulose Acetate Butyrate (CAB - expensive, tougher, and more resistant) falls into this category. Lacquers made from this very expensive resin are completely crystal clear and non-yellowing.